1933 Harley-Davidson VL Springer Rebuild: I-Beam Front End Guide
If you are restoring a 1933 Harley-Davidson VL, the I-beam springer front end is one of the most visible and mechanically important assemblies on the motorcycle. This guide documents a complete 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer rebuild using the original project photos and firsthand notes from my own machine.
The Harley-Davidson I-beam springer was used on sidevalve-era Harley models from 1930 through 1936, including VL, RL, and related machines. Although Knuckleheads debuted in 1936, they used a different springer design, so the parts and assembly details shown here apply specifically to the earlier sidevalve-style front end.
This article fits into the larger VL Tech chassis and control build. After the springer assembly is rebuilt, the next related job in this project is the front brake assembly.
Starting Point: A Spray-Painted VL Springer
For some reason, the previous owner of my springer decided to paint the entire thing with tan spray paint. Springs, fork legs, rockers, Alemite fittings, and even the inside bearing surfaces all got a good coat of paint. I wanted to return the front end to a more correct look, which meant parkerizing the springs and giving the remaining parts a coating of black enamel.
I am not much of a painter, so I sent the black parts out for powder coating while I tackled the springs myself.
Removing Old Paint and Cleaning the Parts
The good thing about spray paint is that a little lacquer thinner and a Scotch-Brite pad will usually remove it fairly easily. I filled a glass container with lacquer thinner and let the parts soak for ten to fifteen minutes before scrubbing them clean with the Scotch-Brite pad. Make sure you wear gloves during the entire process.
Here is how the parts looked after scrubbing. There was still some primer and old black paint left in spots, so everything went into the blasting cabinet for final cleaning.
Parkerizing the VL Springer Springs
Once the springs were clean, it was time to parkerize them. I already put together a separate article on the entire process here: How to Parkerize Motorcycle Parts.
Installing New Spring Rods and Buffer Springs
In the meantime, my other parts came back from being powder coated. Before I started reassembling the front end, I replaced the spring rods using new rods from Colony Machine. Installation is very straightforward: insert the rods through the tapered holes on the spring fork and tighten them in place with the supplied hex nuts.
My original hex nuts had been welded to keep them from loosening, so I used Loctite on the new hex nuts to make sure they did not loosen up on the road.
Once the spring rods were in place, I slid the buffer springs down onto the spring rods. They are held in place with flat check springs, which fit into a flat section milled into the spring rod.
Installing the Cushion Springs
Next came the largest springs, known as cushion springs. These slide down the spring rods and over the buffer springs. With the cushion springs in place, the entire spring fork can be installed on the rigid fork. I covered the rigid fork legs with a towel to make sure I did not damage the finish during assembly.
A Safer Method for Compressing Springer Fork Springs
After slipping the spring rod bushings onto the spring rods, it was time for the hard part: compressing the springs. This step can be potentially dangerous since the cushion springs are very strong and need to be compressed a good deal to finish the installation. Many people use large clamps on the cushion springs, but if something slips, parts can end up flying around your shop.
I came up with a slightly different installation method that felt safer and did not require any heavy-duty clamps. Instead of compressing the larger cushion springs, I compressed the upper fork springs first. I inserted zip ties into the spring on both sides so they could be tightened on the middle coils of the spring. Then I compressed the spring using a Quick-Grip hand clamp. While the spring was compressed, I tightened both zip ties, making sure they were spaced equally on both sides of the spring. Once the zip ties were tightened, I released the clamp and slid the springs onto the spring rods.
I also used another Quick-Grip hand clamp to keep the cushion springs lined up correctly while I was putting on the spring rod upper end nuts.
Once the upper spring rod nuts had been threaded onto the spring rods, I removed the zip ties from the upper fork springs and released the Quick-Grip. The final step to complete the spring installation was to add the upper spring rod lock nuts.
Rebuilding the Rocker Plates and Bushings
Next I installed the rockers at the lower end of the fork. Previously I had replaced all the rocker plate bushings using a custom tool, which I detailed here: Do It Yourself Tools for Rebuilding Harley-Davidson Springer Front Ends.
Using the tool, I pressed out the old worn bearings and pressed in new replacement bearings from Colony Machine. I then reassembled the rocker plates using the following layout. Note that the rocker plate with the offset goes on the right-hand side of the motorcycle.
Here is what the rocker plates look like on the outside of the fork.
Here is what they look like on the inside of the fork.
Completed 1933 VL Springer Rebuild
The last step was to install new Alemite fittings and bend in the tabs on the nut locks. That completed the front end rebuild and the springer was ready to install on the frame.
Parts Used
Colony Machine
7606-26 Complete Rocker Rebuilding Kit
9862-8 Springer Spring Rod Kit
9417-4 Springer Spring Retainer and Top Nut Set
7706-2 Springer Spring Rod Bushings