Harley-Davidson VL I-Beam Springer Front End Rebuild (1930–1936) | Fork Assembly Guide | Riding Vintage

Building a 1933 Harley-Davidson VL: I-Beam Springer Front End Rebuild Guide

If you are restoring a 1933 Harley-Davidson VL, the I-beam springer front end is one of the most visible and mechanically important assemblies on the motorcycle. This guide documents a complete 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer rebuild using the original project photos and firsthand notes from my own machine.

The Harley-Davidson I-beam springer was used on sidevalve-era Harley models from 1930 through 1936, including VL, RL, and related machines. Although Knuckleheads debuted in 1936, they used a different springer design, so the parts and assembly details shown here apply specifically to the earlier sidevalve-style front end.

This article fits into the larger 1933 VL chassis and control build. After the springer assembly is rebuilt, the next related jobs include the front brake assembly, front brake cable installation, and the rest of the VL Tech archive.

Starting Point: A Spray-Painted VL Springer

For some reason, the previous owner of my springer decided to paint the entire thing with tan spray paint. Springs, fork legs, rockers, Alemite fittings, and even the inside bearing surfaces got a good coat of paint. I wanted to restore the front end to a more correct appearance, which meant parkerizing the springs and giving the remaining parts a coating of black enamel.

1933 Harley-Davidson VL I-beam springer front end before rebuild with tan spray paint

The original 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer front end before refinishing and rebuild work began.

Removing Old Paint and Cleaning the Parts

I am not much of a painter, so I sent the black parts out for powder coating while I handled the springs myself. The good thing about spray paint is that a little lacquer thinner and a Scotch-Brite pad usually removes it fairly easily.

I filled a glass container with lacquer thinner and let the parts soak for ten to fifteen minutes before scrubbing them clean. There was still some primer and old black paint left in spots, so everything went into the blasting cabinet for final cleaning. Make sure you wear gloves during the entire process.

1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer parts after lacquer thinner paint removal

The springer parts after the first round of paint removal using lacquer thinner and Scotch-Brite.

Cleaned 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer fork parts ready for powder coating and parkerizing

Cleaned springer parts after blasting, ready for refinishing before final assembly.

Parkerizing the VL Springer Springs

Once the springs were clean, it was time to parkerize them. I already put together a separate article on the process here: How to parkerize motorcycle parts.

Parkerized 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer springs after refinishing

The VL springer springs after parkerizing for a durable period-correct finish.

Installing New Spring Rods and Buffer Springs

Once my powder coated parts were back and the springs were parkerized, it was time to put everything back together. The first step was to install the spring rods into the spring fork.

Before reassembling the front end, I replaced the spring rods using new rods from Colony Machine. Installation is simple: insert them through the tapered holes on the spring fork and tighten them in place with the supplied hex nuts.

My original hex nuts had been welded to keep them from loosening, so I used Loctite on the new nuts for added security.

New spring rods installed in 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer fork

New spring rods installed through the tapered holes in the VL spring fork.

Next, the buffer springs and flat check springs are installed on the spring rods. The buffer springs are the small coil springs and the flat check springs are the flat washers that sit against the spring fork.

Buffer springs and flat check springs installed on 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer rods

Buffer springs and flat check springs installed on the spring rods before the larger cushion springs.

Installing the Cushion Springs

Next came the larger cushion springs. These slide down the rods and over the buffer springs. With the cushion springs in place, the complete spring fork can be installed onto the rigid fork. I used a towel to protect the powder coating while sliding the spring fork into place.

Cushion springs installed on 1933 Harley-Davidson VL I-beam springer fork

The larger cushion springs installed over the buffer springs as the spring fork is fitted to the rigid fork.

A Safer Method for Compressing Springer Fork Springs

After slipping the spring rod bushings onto the rods, it was time for the hard part: compressing the springs. Many people use large clamps on the cushion springs. If something slips, parts can go flying.

I came up with a different method that felt safer. I compressed the upper fork springs first using a Quick-Grip hand clamp, then locked the compressed coils with zip ties before sliding them into place. This let me control the spring before it was positioned on the rods instead of trying to fight the spring while it was already on the front end.

Compressing 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer springs with Quick-Grip clamp and zip ties

The upper spring compressed with a Quick-Grip clamp and secured with zip ties before installation.

Once the upper fork springs were in place, I used a second Quick-Grip clamp to help line up the cushion springs with the spring rods. This kept everything controlled while the springs were compressed far enough to start the upper hardware.

Aligning cushion springs during 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer assembly with clamp

A second clamp helps align the cushion springs with the spring rods during springer assembly.

After the springs were seated and the hardware was started, I removed the zip ties and installed the upper spring rod lock nuts.

Upper spring rod lock nuts installed on rebuilt 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer fork

Upper spring rod lock nuts installed after the springs were seated and the zip ties removed.

Rebuilding the Rocker Plates and Bushings

Next I installed the rocker plates at the lower end of the fork. Previously I replaced the rocker bushings using a custom tool documented here: Do It Yourself Tools for Rebuilding Harley-Davidson Springer Front Ends.

The rocker bushing and bearing replacement required pressing out the old worn bearings and pressing in new Colony replacements. This is the part of the job where the correct tool makes a big difference because it keeps the bushings square and avoids damaging the rocker plates.

The rocker plate with the offset goes on the right-hand side of the motorcycle.

1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer rocker plate layout with offset plate on right side

The rocker plate layout, with the offset rocker plate installed on the right-hand side of the motorcycle.

This is the outside of the fork.

Outside view of rebuilt 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer rocker plates

Outside view of the rebuilt VL springer rocker plates installed on the fork.

This is the inside of the fork.

Inside view of rebuilt 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer rocker plates

Inside view of the rebuilt VL springer rocker plates and lower fork assembly.

Completed 1933 VL Springer Rebuild

The last step was to install new Alemite fittings and bend in the tabs on the nut locks. That completed the rebuild and the springer was ready to install on the frame.

Completed 1933 Harley-Davidson VL I-beam springer front end rebuild

The completed 1933 Harley-Davidson VL springer front end after refinishing and reassembly.

Parts Used

Colony Machine
7606-26 Complete Rocker Rebuilding Kit
9862-8 Springer Spring Rod Kit
9417-4 Springer Spring Retainer and Top Nut Set
7706-2 Springer Spring Rod Bushings

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